Chilton's Blog for Automotive Repair Information Online

Do All Modern Sedans Look the Same?

ChiltonDIY — Tue, 21 May 2013 22:18:59 +0000

By Ryan Lee Price

Have you ever walked out of the store to a sea of clones in the parking lot, wondering why your Toyota Camry looks like a Honda Accord, which looks like a Nissan Altima, which looks like an Audi A4? If you remember the good old days of being able to spot the difference between a Chevy and a Ford at a half-mile’s distance, then you’re not alone. The differences that have kept the manufacturers’ designs from looking alike seem to be becoming ever more subtle.

Are the designers out of good ideas? Why aren’t there fins, flares or other frills? Aren’t they interested in making their cars stand out from the crowd? It turns out that the designers of modern vehicles are guided by at least five considerations: profit, safety, reliability, fuel economy and you.

Some design and engineering ideas never make it past the accountants. Lightweight, strong materials such as carbon fiber, titanium, magnesium and aluminum alloy are used sparingly because of their relatively higher costs compared with steel and plastic. Unique body structures are considered in relation to competitive models. Does the class leader have a similar design treatment? Can the car be sold internationally? Each unique idea had better meet business objectives and have an influential champion behind it or it won’t be put into production.

Through focus groups, consumer marketing panels and car-buying surveys, people say they are not as interested in flashiness as they once were. With the exception of a few design variants, they want functionality, reliability and efficiency. The road-going lust of the car culture is waning, as the average age of first-time drivers steadily gets
higher, more people take public transportation, and some would-be drivers decide to forgo the costs and hassle of car ownership altogether. For the most part, people want transportation, not necessarily to make a statement. As a result, car designers play it safe and pen a car for the majority rather than a narrow niche. Consider that the milquetoast Honda Civic sold 10 times the units as the funky Hyundai Veloster.

Fuel economy is the largest factor to be considered when designing a modern sedan. To create a more efficient vehicle with high mpg, all new car designs spend considerable time in a wind tunnel. By shaving off fractions of an inch to body panels, designers try to come as close as possible to a perfect aerodynamic profile (the teardrop) in an effort to obtain a sleek coefficient of drag, the measurement that determines how much air passes around a car. Since hardly anybody would buy a car shaped like a teardrop, designers have to compromise. The end result is duplicated by manufacturers around the world.

Manufacturers are reaching an increasingly global vehicle market, so safety standards in this and other countries must be considered. For example, cars bound for Europe need to be designed considering pedestrian impact. Europe requires that the nose of the car must strike a person above and below the waist at the same time to increase the chance that a person will land on the hood as opposed to being swept under the car. This results in chunky bumpers and blunt facades. In an extreme example, Jaguar added a “pedestrian deployable bonnet system” to its XKR in 2007. The device raises the hood several inches when bumper sensors detect that it has struck a pedestrian, allowing for a buffer between the unfortunate pedestrian and the not-so-forgiving engine below.

To test your ability to discern design differences, there are eight random sedans in the picture at the beginning of this article. Which car is which?

Please provide your best guess and visit our Facebook fan page at https://www.facebook.com/ChiltonAutomotive?v=wall for the answers.

Not only is Ryan Lee Price a freelance writer specializing in automotive journalism and a former long-time magazine editor, he is part of the technical editorial team that provides content for most all of the ChiltonPRO and ChiltonDIY products. He currently resides in Corona, California, with his wife Kara and their two children.

Frederick Tudor Was Number One: The Story of the First License Plate in the U.S.

ChiltonDIY — Thu, 16 May 2013 00:07:21 +0000

By Ryan Lee Price

Up until 1900 in Massachusetts, there were no laws governing the rules of the roads for any type of traffic—carriages, wagons, pedestrians—especially for the burgeoning numbers of automobiles. Not only was it confusing, but a mix of so many modes of transportation was also quite dangerous. For example, the first auto-related death in the U.S. happened in New York in 1899 when 68-year-old Henry Bliss was struck by a taxi near Central Park.

The Massachusetts Legislature passed a bill in 1892, creating a Commission of Inquiry that noted more than 90 percent of the roads were in very poor condition and were only going to get worse as traffic increased. This investigation led to the creation of the Massachusetts Highway Commission a year later; it was one of the first such governmental bodies in the country to “improve the public roads, and to define its powers and duties,” according to the 1893 Commission Report.

Meanwhile, wealthy Henry Lee Higginson (he was the founder of Boston Symphony Orchestra) was growing tired of cars regularly exceeding the speed limit of 15 miles an hour on the roads near his summer estate. He submitted a petition in 1903 about his problem entitled, “A Petition Relative to Licensing Automobiles and Those Operating the Same.”

Higginson had influential friends.

By June of that same year, as a way of creating the revenue to improve the roads, as well as identifying cars involved in newly created traffic infractions, Massachusetts passed a provision in Chapter 473 of the Acts of 1903, creating the “automobile department” (headed by Elting O’Hara, the highway commission board’s stenographer). As Higginson suggested, the new “automobile department” required all automobile owners to register their cars and pay the two dollar fee each year; in exchange, license plates were issued to each registered car. The public had until September to comply. Incidentally, New York had been the first to require license plates in 1901, but relied on the car owners to make their own. Massachusetts was the first state in the nation to issue plates, and by New Year’s Eve 1903, 3,241 automobiles and 502 motorcycles (in addition to 692 chauffeur licenses and car manufacturer licenses) helped deposit $17,684 into the state treasury.

The very first license plate issued by a state government (Number 1) was issued on September 1, 1903, to Frederick Tudor of Brookline. Not only was Tudor just the right man at the right time, but he was working with the highway commission at the time and he just so happened to be the nephew of Henry Lee Higginson.

These early Massachusetts license plates were made of iron and covered in a porcelain enamel. The background was colored a cobalt blue and the number was white. Along the top of the plate were the words, “MASS. AUTOMOBILE REGISTER.” The size of the plate was not constant; it grew wider as the plate number reached into the tens, hundreds, and thousands.

Immediately after the first license plates appeared, drivers in Massachusetts were vying to obtain the lowest numbered plate available as a symbol of status. For the past 20 years, the Registry of Motor Vehicles has held a lottery to clear out low numbered license plates from its inventory. Nearly 5,000 people enter this lottery every year in the hopes of winning a much coveted low-number plate, and even though a three- or four-digit license plate can carry an air of exclusivity to its owner, no one can get any better than Tudor’s license plate Number 1, which is still actively registered to one of his descendants.

Under Pressure…Keeping Your Tires Inflated Will Make Them Last Longer and Your Vehicle Will Use Less Fuel Too!

ChiltonDIY — Fri, 16 Nov 2012 20:51:40 +0000

Even if you have a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), as equipped on many newer vehicles, you should check your tire pressures regularly, at least monthly. Most tires lose one pound per square inch (PSI) per month, assuming the temperature does not fluctuate much. If temperatures drop, tire pressures also drop. Every 10 degrees Fahrenheit (°F) drop in temperature causes tires to lose 1°F.
Underinflated tires increase friction against the pavement and can cause excess tire wear, even blowouts when the vehicle is fully loaded or overloaded. You cannot tell the appropriate tire pressure by just looking at the sidewall of the tires and estimating how flat it looks against the pavement. Tires have various sidewall flex characteristics based on their aspect ratio (section height divided by width), traction rating (e.g., A, B, C) and intended use, so use a quality tire gauge to check your tire pressure against specifications.

Use one of Chilton’s DIY Manuals to learn how to properly inflate your tires!

Which Basic Hand Tools Do You Need?

ChiltonDIY — Fri, 05 Oct 2012 12:54:55 +0000

As you begin to perform maintenance on your car or truck, you might need to buy some more tools. Purchase your tools gradually, so that you gain the confidence to use the tools, realize their value, and determine your needs before buying more. To begin, you should have the following hand tools for basic vehicle maintenance. I will explain how to select electronic diagnostic tools in another article.
Recommendation: Buy quality tools that have long-term (even lifetime) warranties from companies with solid reputations for good customer service. Cheap tools can cause problems during your work, commonly not fitting fasteners properly, bending or breaking during use, and inflicting pain or injury on the user.

Forged steel combination open-end and box-end wrenches in 7 mm – 19 mm sizes (choose inch sizes for older American vehicles).
Hex key wrench set.
Assorted screwdrivers: standard slotted-type, Phillips head, Torx®, long and short bladed. Many or all of these types can belong to one screwdriver with interchangeable blades or bits.

Assorted pliers, including long-nose (also called needle-nose), channel locking, gripping or locking pliers, O-ring pliers, and wire cutters.

Forged steel 6 or 12-point socket set with a fine-tooth ratchet-type wrench; short and long extensions and a 13/16 in. or 5/8 in. spark plug socket (depending on plug type).

Click-type torque wrench for tightening bolts to proper specifications.

Hydraulic jack (with the capacity to lift at least half of your vehicle’s weight). Invest in a good jack, because if it fails, your vehicle may fall to the ground when you are not prepared to place it there.
Jack stands that can easily support the weight of the vehicle. Don’t scrimp on jack stands either; they can save your life.
Oil filter wrench. Check your oil filter size and type before buying this wrench. The strap-type wrench doesn’t fit all filters. You might not even need a special wrench for cartridge-type filters.
Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.
Large container for catching oil and other draining fluids; even better is a recycling container system, which some local governments distribute to encourage used oil recycling.
A shop light. It should be small enough to fit in tight spaces, tough enough to withstand some knocking around, and convenient enough to attach under the hood or anywhere it is needed so your hands are free to work.

Here is one final word about how much to pay for your tools. All the tools above, if purchased new, should cost several hundred dollars. Add a rollaway tool box to keep them in and the total will exceed a thousand dollars. But they can pay you back in just a few repair jobs. If you buy quality tools, they will last longer than your cars—or even you. I still use some hand tools that were given to me by my father, and some of those were given to him by his father.

Find out more about Auto Maintenance with Chilton!

How to Replace Tires like a Professional

ChiltonDIY — Thu, 02 Aug 2012 12:56:18 +0000

So, you’ve got a set of four new truck/car tires and you want them wrapped around the wheels that are already on your vehicle. It’s a common situation, but the trouble is your old bald tires; they’re still on the vehicle, right? If you happen to own tire irons, a big hammer and some sizable biceps, you might be able to break the tire bead seals, but you could damage the wheels quite easily. Plus, the odds are good that you don’t have a tire balancing machine… they’re expensive and take up a lot of room. Instead of going DIY, in this case, it is much more fun to watch it being done. Let’s take an inside look at how to replace truck/car tires like a professional.

The first step, of course, is removing the wheels from the car. At a shop, they jack the whole car off the ground to make it easier to balance the tires on the car itself (more on this later). Most of the action takes place around two machines. The first piece of equipment the tire visits is the tire changer, which costs a couple grand. After the air is let out of the tire (by removing the valve stem completely), the tire is lined up with the side-mounted bead loosener, which uses a pneumatic arm to pinch the tire enough to break its seal on the wheel. The shovel-sized head on this mechanism replaces you hitting the tire with a hammer.

Once the bead is broken on both sides and the tire is flopping around the rim, it is hoisted up on the table top of the tire changer, and a pickup truck or SUV wheel/tire combination weighs nearly 100 lbs., so it can be rather cumbersome to wield around. There are four rubber-tipped clamping arms that grab and secure the wheel without scratching it, while the operator slips between the wheel and tire separation head that has a polymer insert to further protect the wheel. With a flick of the foot petal, the wheel begins to turn, while the stationary separation head pulls the tire from the inside of the rim to the outside. Sometimes, the tire needs a little coaxing with the tire irons.

The process is repeated for the inside bead as well, pulling the tire completely off of the rim from the top. A brand new inflation valve is inserted and the new tire is prepped for its place on the rim by bathing the bead with soapy water. This helps the tire slip over the rim easier. With the help of a couple of tire irons, the tire changer’s separation head becomes a joining head, pushing the tire’s beads over the rim. With a tire this size, it can be a tough job.

The pin in the new valve stem is temporarily removed so 50 lbs. of air can be pumped into the tire quickly. Then it is off to the balancing machine. The process is simple in a shop but virtually impossible to do at home without special equipment. Balanced tires not only ride smoother and safer but last longer and offer an even wear throughout the tire’s life. The tire and wheel are clamped onto the spoke via the wheel’s lug pattern and the machine verifies electronically that the wheel is perfectly centered.

Once the balancer is started, it only takes about 10 seconds for the machine to measure the tire’s balance and not only suggest the amount of weight needed to fix the imperfection in the tire but it also shows exactly where the weights need to be added. Each square of weight equals one-quarter ounce and is glued to the inside of the wheel, out of sight

Now the new tire/wheel combination is ready to be fitted back on the car, where it will be tightened to the correct specification. Normally, we encourage you to learn how to replace your tires with the help of our extensive database at www.chiltondiy.com. However, some things—like replacing tires—are best left to the professionals with the big, expensive machines. Make sure you know the right size! Chilton’s DIY Manuals can help.

How To Change Your Oil In A Ford Focus

ChiltonDIY — Mon, 18 Jun 2012 21:42:12 +0000

Things for the oil change CC Image courtesy of cronewynd on Flickr

The Ford Focus is one of the most popular vehicles on the road today, and it’s no surprise why: it’s economical, gets great mileage, and it still has that sporty flair.

One common issue we see with the Ford Focus owners and enthusiasts is that they like to save money and do basic repairs and maintenance themselves. Changing the oil in a Ford Focus is one of the most common maintenance questions we see.

To start, you’ll need to get your tools in order:

Socket Wrench
Oil Filter Cap Wrench or a small strap-type filter wrench
A funnel
Disposable rubber or latex gloves
Good quality floor jack and jackstands, or
Good quality drive-on ramps
A torque wrench
Oil Drain Pan
New Oil Filter
4 1/2 qt. 5W-20 Oil
Paper Towels

Now, first things first. Run the engine until it’s warm. Draining warm oil removes more contaminants than draining cold oil.

If you’re using ramps, make sure that, once the car is securely on the ramps, place the transmission in Park, or for a manual transmission, in 1^st gear. Firmly set the parking brake.

If you’re jacking up your car, make sure the car is off, the keys are out of the ignition, and the parking brake is on. Place the jack under the jack point, which should be indicated by little arrow or triangle shapes along the lateral edge near your front wheel.

Once sufficiently lifted, place the car on the jackstands to ensure it doesn’t accidentally fall on you.

Open the hood and remove the dipstick (with the yellow handle) and oil cap.

Underneath your car, find the oil pan drain plug which will be on a low point of the oil pan. Place your oil drain pan underneath the oil pan drain plug.

View more information on the Ford Repair Manual.

How To Replace The Fuel Filter Of A Ford Focus

ChiltonDIY — Mon, 18 Jun 2012 21:38:54 +0000

The Ford Focus is a wonderfully economic car. Late models get upwards of 40 miles per gallon, and their lifetime maintenance costs tend to be low. That said, you can save even more on service and maintenance by doing some simple tasks yourself. Replacing the fuel filter in a Ford Focus is one of those money-saving tasks.

You’ll generally want to change the fuel filter every 30,000 miles — so maybe every two or so years, depending on your driving volume. The filter is replaceable on 2000-05 models. In 2006, Ford started using a permanent filter which is part of the fuel pump module.

To change the fuel filter, you’ll need a replacement fuel filter and a socket wrench set. You’ll also need a good quality floor jack and jackstands, or a set of good quality drive-on ramps.

You’ll also need some disposable rubber or latex gloves since gasoline is tough on skin, safety goggles to avoid getting gasoline in your eyes, and a some sort of catch can, since there will be some gasoline in the old filter.

Before starting any work on or near the fuel system, remember, never smoke anywhere near the fuel system or have any type of flame or spark near it!

The fuel system is pressurized, so you’ll have to relieve that pressure before you open any part of the fuel system. Find the fuse box. Inside the fuse box, locate the fuel pump fuse. You will be able to find it based on the diagram on the fuse box cover or by consulting Chilton’s online data base. Remove the fuel pump fuse.

Start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank it for 5 seconds more to make sure all pressure is relieved. It may not start at all. In either case, this will relieve the fuel pressure.

The fuel filter should be on the passenger side, in the area of the rear suspension, near the leading edge of the fuel tank.

If you’re using a floor jack and jackstands, place the automatic transaxle in Park or the manual transaxle in 1^st gear. Firmly set the parking brake, lift the passenger’s side of the car at the jack point, which should be indicated by an arrow or triangle shape underneath the car. Once elevated, place the jack stands under the car to ensure it doesn’t fall or slip. If you’re using ramps, drive onto the ramps until the rear of the car is securely supported. Place the automatic transaxle in Park or the manual transaxle in 1^st gear. Firmly set the parking brake.

Above is the evaporative emission tube used on some 2000-04 models. This should be disconnected first

This is the filter location and lines for the 2000-04 models

This is the filter location and lines for the 2005 models

Connected to the fuel filter will be the fuel lines (arrows).

On 2000-04 models, there can be 4 types of quick-release couplings:

On 2005 models, disconnect the fuel line by depressing this type of quick release tabs.

Above is the filter bracket bol for 200-04 models

Depending on the year, there will also be an evaporative emissions vapor line. Disconnect that as well.

The fuel filter will be secured to the car using a bracket. Using a wrench, remove the fuel filter bracket. At this point, you can easily remove the fuel filter.

Above is the filter bracket bol for 2005 models

Place the new filter in the bracket and bolt it in place. Make sure the filter is facing the right direction. New filters usually have an arrow to note this.

Lubricate the fuel tube fittings with clean engine oil. Align the fuel tube fittings and press together until a click is heard and then pull on the fittings to make sure they are fully engaged.

Reconnect the battery ground cable and re-insert the fuel pump fuse.

You can turn the car on and check the area under the fuel filter for any leaks. If you find leaks, turn the car off, remove the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the ground cable. Investigate the source of leaks, such as a loose connection or improperly fitted fuel filter.

When everything looks good, carefully lower the car from the jackstands or drive it off the ramps.

If there are no leaks, then congratulations. You’ve successfully replaced your fuel filter. If you have any questions about the Ford Focus fuel system, you can search Chilton’s data base for your Ford Focus’s specific model and year to find detailed instructions, images, and specific tips from our certified expert technicians on Ford Focus maintenance and repair. Check out our DIY Ford Repair Manual.

How To Change The Headlight Bulbs In Your Toyota Camry

ChiltonDIY — Mon, 18 Jun 2012 20:34:17 +0000

2007 Camry Headlight CC Image courtesy of Stefano A on Flickr

If you’re a little lucky, upkeep costs on your Toyota Camry should be pretty modest. That’s why it’s the best-selling car in North America. Maintenance such as oil changes, new air filters, and replacing worn brake pads are all fairly easy. Another way to save money on car repair costs is to replace your own headlight bulbs.

It’s fairly simple — virtually no tools required.

The first thing you need to get are some new headlight bulbs. Consult your owner’s manual for the specific bulb(s) required. There are low-beam and high-beam bulbs (a total of four bulbs for your car). You could probably choose from a variety of aftermarket bulbs with different filaments, colors, and intensities. Just make sure you get the right kind. You’ll also need a pair of clean cotton gloves. Many bulbs (particularly halogen) overheat when handled by bare hands because the natural oils on your skin can coat the bulbs, preventing them from releasing heat efficiently.

Once you’ve got your new bulbs, you’re ready to go.

Make sure the car is off, the transmission in park, and the keys are out of the ignition. Open the hood, and find the headlight assembly (on either side). If you’re only replacing the low- or high-beams, then make sure you’re working on the correct one.

The bulbs simply screw into the headlight assembly. Remove the bulb and connector from the rear of the headlight assembly by turning it (carefully) counterclockwise. Unplug the bulb from the electrical connector. If you discard the bulb, be careful because it might shatter and release harmful materials. It’s best to recycle used bulbs in your local recycling center than carelessly tossing them into the trash.

Now re-attach the new headlight bulb to the electrical wire. Make sure to wear the clean cotton gloves when handling and installing the new bulb. Then, screw the new bulb clockwise into the headlight assembly. Be sure to replace both sides, driver and passenger. And if you’re replacing the high- and low-beams, make sure not to get them confused.

Test your headlight bulb replacement job by turning the ignition on and, on a level surface, aiming the headlights at a flat wall or garage door to ensure they’re working and pointing in the correct positions.

That’s it! If you have any questions about how Toyota Camry headlights work, leave them in the comments below. Or, you can search ChiltonDIY for your Toyota Camry’s specific model and year to find instructions, images, and specific tips from our certified expert technicians on Camry maintenance and repair. Find out everything Toyota with our DIY Repair Manual!

How To Replace The Fuel Filter In Your Ford F150

ChiltonDIY — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 20:26:55 +0000

With proper maintenance, good driving habits, and a little luck, your Ford F150 should last for years (if not decades). Still, it may be a bit daunting to work on. Ask anyone who’s had to climb inside the hood of one of them. But that shouldn’t deter you! Just working on your truck a getting the most out of it is half the fun.

Today’s post is about how to replace the fuel filter in your fuel injected Ford F150. The F-150 first used fuel injection with the 1985 8-302 (5.0L) engine.

You should replace the fuel filter at the intervals designated by Ford, which can be found in Chilton’s online data base. The intervals vary by year, from 1985 to 2008, from every 15,000 miles to every 30,000 miles. In 2009, Ford started using a filter which is part of the fuel pump module and does not require changing. It’s a fairly easy, inexpensive way to keep your whole fuel system in good shape.

You’ll just need a replacement fuel filter and a fuel line removal tool. The type of tool will vary by the year of your truck. These tools can be purchased at your local auto parts store.

Before starting any work on or near the fuel system, remember, never smoke anywhere near the fuel system or have any type of flame or spark near it!

You’ll probably have to lift the truck to get to the filter unless it’s a 4×4, in which case you may have enough room to crawl underneath. If you have to lift it, use a good floor jack, not the bumper jack and a good set of jackstands to support it. You can also use a good quality set of drive-on ramps. First things first, make sure your truck’s engine is off and the automatic transmission in Park. Firmly set the parking brake. It’s also a good idea to disconnect the battery ground cable; there may be some old wires which could cause a spark.

The fuel system is pressurized, so you’ll have to relieve that pressure before you open any part of the fuel system. Once again, the way to do this will vary by year. You can find the correct procedure by checking Chilton’s online data base.

Now you’re ready to get started.

The following procedure is general and should apply to most years:

The fuel filter is located mid-way along the inside of the left (driver’s side) frame rail.

Most years have safety clamps at each end of the filter over the fittings. Gently pry these off. You may need a small pry tool to get them to move.

Spread the special release tool open and …

… place the tool on the filter inlet/outlet tube and carefully press the tool inward to release the garter spring on the spring lock coupling and …

… remove the fuel lines from the filter.

Remove the filter from the clamp by pulling it straight out, but be careful, as you can see fuel will most likely spill out of the filter

Push the new filter into the clip. Make sure it is pointing in the right direction. Most new filters have an arrow to help you.

Push the fuel lines onto the filter until you can hear a click. To be sure they’re secure, try pulling on them, gently. If they’re on correctly, put the safety clips back on.

Lower your truck if you had it up on stands or ramps, connect the battery and start the engine. Check the filter and lines for leaks.

If this post wasn’t helpful for replacing your Ford F150′s fuel filter, or you just need more help with another repair project, take a look at ChiltonDIY. You can enter your vehicle’s year and model, and get step-by-step repair instructions, diagrams, and expert advice from our automotive technicians. Ready to tackle your next Ford project? Check out our Ford Online Repair Manual.

How To Replace The Tail Lights In Your Ford F150

ChiltonDIY — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 19:43:03 +0000

Ford’s F-150 has not only been the best-selling vehicle in the United States for the last 24 years but it has also been the best-selling truck since 1977. For good reason: You can haul or tow anything to anywhere at any time.

Because of its durability and the high quality of engineering that go into each successive generation (they’re on the 12^th now), time spent up on the rack at a body shop is minimal over the truck’s lifetime. However, since its lifespan can be as long as its owner’s, there is a host of general maintenance required.

Case in point, light bulbs. On the 1997 and later F-150 XLT, not counting dash lights and gauges, there are 15 light bulbs that will need replacing at some point. Light bulbs fail; the world is an imperfect place. And you’ll need to fix it.

Rest assured, you’d be surprised how simple it is to replace them, sometimes as easy as popping off a plastic cover (dome and map lights) or a little more complicated by unsnapping the housing (headlights). Right in the middle of the skill level spectrum are the tail lights, as removing the whole assembly is fairly straightforward. All you will just need an 8mm socket (or wrench), a hard plastic pry bar (or equivalent) and the replacement bulbs.

First things first: make sure your truck is off and in park; getting a small jolt from a live wire isn’t part of the process. Drop the tailgate, and find the two mounting bolts that retain the housing. They should be just inside the tailgate jamb, the part exposed on the truck where the tailgate sits when it’s closed.

Remove both the 8mm bolts in the tailgate jamb using the socket wrench.

Theoretically, you can just pull the whole tail light assembly out. There are two pins holding the assembly to the outer bed panel, but by getting a good grip on it and pulling straight back, they usually pop free. However, getting something in between the light housing and the sheet metal to act as a pry bar will help (make sure it won’t scratch the paint).

Once inside, find the errant light bulb (brake light is on top, while reverse light is on the bottom). Turn the tail light sockets counterclockwise and remove them from the assembly. Now just replace the light bulbs with new bulbs. Point of caution: Make sure you don’t touch the bulbs themselves since the oils on your fingers will shorten their lifespan. Dispose of your old bulbs carefully.

At this point, you’re nearly done. Just re-assemble the tail light assembly and snap the pins of the housing into the body of your truck. Replace the two 8mm bolts on the inside of the tailgate jamb.

And that’s it! You saved yourself a bit of money and you learned something about your truck in the process (and maybe yourself too).

If you have any other questions, or have more difficult Ford F150 repairs to make, check out ChiltonDIY. Just search for the year and model of your vehicle, and you’ll find detailed instructions, diagrams, and advise from Chilton’s highly trained repair technicians, all from the comfort of your garage. Check out our DIY Ford Repair Manual for all of your Ford repair needs.